35ft Pitch

Often referred to as Dolphin Pitch

Request Received: October 2020

The current bolts that are in place, are in my opinion becoming quite dodgy and ideally should be backed up to other belay points if possible.

This area would benefit well from new trusted resin anchors as it receives a large amount of traffic, including among student groups who may not have experience in evaluating the condition of spits or similar style anchors.

This has also been commented to me by various people, including Wayne Starsmore who was semi concerned with the potential of a rescue.


A trip was arrange to look at the anchor. People on the trip Andrew Atkinson, Chris Williams, Sioned Haughton.

Report

by Andrew Atkinson

There are two through bolt type anchors above the hole that is emerged onto. These are not stainless steel and have moved in the past. Unknown age or quality. There are various boulders that can be used of rigging, not are ideal. In one of the boulders there are 3 spits a little close together, one has an anchor attached that is loose and showing signs of wear. The rock in other places is patchy, however, there is probably enough to make a sound belay point. It would be possible to remove the spits and use one of the holes for a resin anchor. Hopefully the wall behind can be used for a couple of anchors to be used for belaying, these can also be used as a traverse line start and a single anchor SRT rope hang added, although the rock in that area needs to be tested by drilling. It has been my opinion for some time, that if they are not replaced officially someone will place other, probably less suitable and environmentally friendly alternatives as they have already tried to with the through bolts and the anchors on the Twin Terticals. (Anchors on the Twin Verticals appear to be fine, could have been better placed, however they are not a type that we have currently had success replacing, so when they inevitably wear those sites will become unusable for future anchors)

  • Last modified: 12 Nov 2021 18:04
  • by andrew